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hair

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Natural Hair Science: The Importance of Knowing Your Hair Porosity

The most common concerns with natural hair that I hear about or receive emails on are usually, “How can I get my curls to pop?” “I’m not receiving enough moisture.” “How can I get my hair to grow?” These are the typical concerns for naturals and new naturals. Trust me, I get it. I understand that desire for long luscious hair. However, we must go deeper into understanding our hair. You must understand your hair’s porosity if you want to seriously achieve healthy growing hair.

Hair porosity is one of the most overlooked hair properties. Not knowing your hair’s porosity level can in fact be detrimental to your “hair growth” journey. Once you identify your hair’s porosity level, you will know what products to use. You will then notice your hair retaining moisture and becoming healthy. Let’s take a look at the different levels of hair porosity and more importantly, how you can find your hair’s porosity level.

Hair Porosity
Hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb moisture or the ability for liquid, air, or chemicals to pass through or out the layers of the cuticle. Now, the cuticle, the overlapping scales of the hair, is the major player in this whole game when it comes to hair porosity. Because, wherever the position of your cuticles sit, it will determine your hair condition, i.e. whether your hair is dry, frizzy, limp, moisturized, gets tangled easily, etc. And there are three levels to porosity — Normal, High, and Low.

Normal Porosity
The cuticles are normally healthy. The position in which the cuticles sit allows product to penetrate and keep hair moisturized. For the most part, with this level, the hair is shiny, smooth, and soft. Liquids or products that penetrate the cuticle will enter and stay, which keeps your hair moisturized (figure 1-1).

normal porosity

High porosity
The cuticles are very porous. The appearance of the cuticle in high porosity hair may look uneven or frizzy because the cuticles are raised and lifted. The cuticles are opened, willingly to receive moisture and more moisture and even more moisture (figure 1-2). Sounds great. Right? However, the problem is that because the cuticles are greatly opened, an abundant source of moisture is escaping the hair. This can lead to breakage and may even leave your hair dry and damaged because the hair is not being properly moisturized.

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Low porosity
The cuticles sit flat and are very tight or compacted. Because of this, the cuticle will most likely not allow for liquid, air, chemical treatments, or products to penetrate the hair shaft. This can cause product build-up because the products are just sitting on your hair. The cuticles are not opened enough for the cortex to receive the hydration and moisture that it needs (figure 1-3). The key for low porosity hair is that it needs hydration and moisture.

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HAIR POROSITY TEST
Want to know what porosity level you have? Simply take the hair porosity test and find out.

1. Fill a glass half way with tepid water.
2. Pull out a strand of your hair.
3. Place your strand into the glass water for 2-5 minutes.

After your time is up…
• If you hair stayed at the top you have low porosity hair.
• If you hair floats around the middle, then you have normal porosity hair.
• If you hair sinks to the bottom, you have high porosity hair.

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Once you have discovered your porosity level, you are armed with the knowledge you need to pick out the perfect hair care products that work best for your hair. No more guessing, no more wondering why a particular product isn’t working for you. Only better results. So get to know your hair better. Explore your porosity level today!

For additional information, view a detailed video on Identifying Your Hair Porosity:

About the author: Claire Brown is the owner and founder of Kriya Botanicals, an all natural hair care product line. With a degree in Exercise Science, she uses her health and science background to develop all natural hair care products. For a breakdown of each porosity level, or additional hair care tips, visit KriyaBotanicals.com today or follow her on Facebook and Instagram.

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5 Hair Care Mistakes Most Naturals Make

 

 

Reblog from: DIYHairCareBlog

I’m just going to lay it out for you all, a lot of the information in the natural hair community

can be questionable and have you walking in circles with your hair. Often when you’re newly

natural, it can be hard to know what is meat and what is bones. Here are 5 hair care mistakes

you don’t want to make.

1. Joining Bandwagons– What’s a bandwagon? It’s going out and trying techniques and new hair tools just because others are doing it. Every month there is a new bandwagon; co-washing, no-poo, baggying, Tangle Teezer, and others are all bandwagons. While these techniques can be beneficial; if what you’re doing isn’t broken don’t try to fix it. Try only following techniques that solve a problem you currently have with your hair.

2.Hair Typing– Yes, it’s nice to feel like you’re a part of a group but honestly, hair typing is purely aesthetic. Yes your curls can look like someone elses but, it takes more than knowing your hair type to really figure out what your hair likes and doesn’t like. You can learn a lot from people who don’t have the same hair type as you do.

3. Throwing Away Products That Work– Don’t go and throwaway that “tried and true” leave-in just because, you’ve now learned about mineral oil. Trust me, when you’re having a bad hair day, you’re going to be looking for that tried and true product. Again, if it isn’t broken don’t fix it.

4. Black People, Black Hair, Black Products– Please, kick this notion to the curb. You may have more in common hairwise with someone who is not the same color as you and actually learn some great tips from other curlies. Lots of natural hair ladies use Dove, Suave, Loreal, Aussie Moist, Garnier Fructis, with much success and these aren’t marketed for “black hair”. Just find products that solve the problems you’re facing with your hair.

5. Natural Is Easy As 1-2-3– No, natural hair doesn’t have to be difficult but, we all have our days. Don’t go natural thinking that you won’t have any bad hair days or even months! Natural hair has it’s learning curves.

By keeping the 5 tips above in mind while on your journey it will save you a lot of frustration, there’s is nothing like experiencing excessive breakage or slit ends and having no idea where they came from and how to stop them. If you keep your regimen consistent, you will get consistent results.

 

 

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Itchin’ For A Solution: Recipes To Relieve An Itchy Scalp

 

Hey Queens,

I hope you all are having a Tremendous Thursday! I was inspired to create this post because I know a large portion of us suffer from an itchy scalp, and I am not excluded.  I’m currently rocking a curly protective style for the summer, and I’m going insane by not being able to get to my scalp.  After doing a little bit of research on some of my favorite natural hair blogs, I found a great list of recipes to help resolve the problem. Oh, and guess what?!? You can create these recipes in the comfort of your own home.

Check out these quick, and easy recipes below from BGLH:

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1. Apple Cider Vinegar

A staple in the world of hair care, when diluted with water apple cider vinegar is used for its clarifying properties as well as its ability to help reduce hair porosity as a rinse due to its low pH balance. It also has anti-bacterial qualities that make it particularly helpful in treating an itchy scalp that is caused by bacteria build-up, and against any fungal condition (yeast on the scalp). Yeast don’t like an acidic environment so swabbing the scalp with an ACV solution can be helpful.Just be careful to make sure that you dilute it enough to a level where it is comfortable enough to put on your scalp, or else it will sting like crazy, especially if you have any abraded skin. The raw, unfiltered organic ACV is the best kind.

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2. Aloe Vera
In case you decide to try the ACV, consider having some aloe vera gel on hand to soothe any stinging sensations that you may get. Aloe Vera can be used straight from the plant, or the organic gel can be bought commercially. Naturally emollient and calming, it is a great balm for the scalp that will also soften the hair and feed your roots.

 

 

 

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3. Tea Tree Oil
Melaleuca  Alternifolia, or simply “Tea Tree Oil” is ubiquitous in shampoos and conditioners for this very condition in large part due to its highly antiseptic qualities. It’s a triple threat to scalp irritations because of its anti-fungal, anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties. Again, Tea Tree Oil should not be used full strength and is best when used with a carrier oil. Which brings us to the next tried and true product…

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4. Coconut Oil
Ever seen a moldy coconut? That’s because the capyrilic acid in coconuts inhibit the growth of fungus. Incidentally, caprylic acid is also an active ingredient in a lot of vitamin supplements for women who are trying to suppress an overgrowth of candida (yeast) throughout the body. As always, look for the unfiltered, unrefined, organicextra-virgin coconut oil, cold-pressed if possible. It’s especially effective when infused with a few drops of tea tree oil.

 What recipes have you tried to relieve your itchy scalp?!? I would love to hear 🙂

Xoxo

Malia

To check out more recipes like this, check out the latest issue of Natura Magazine HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Why is Natural Hair So Expensive?

“At the end of it all, products are great and they’re kind of like the icing on the cake. But what’s going to dictate your style is your technique.” – Naptural85

 

In her video “Natural Hair is TOO EXPENSIVE?!?!,” Vlogger Naptural85 sparked a conversation on the natural hair product struggle.

She encourages naturals to stick with products they’re comfortable with and focus heavily on technique.

Watch below on how to learn your hair first!

 

 

 

 

 

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Sex and Natural Hair

Tablets, cream, ointments, herbs, mixtures and even onions! These are some of the measures a natural girl can go through to stimulate hair growth.

All the above mentioned methods stand a strong ground.. But what if there was an even more natural way, another practice, another technique which didn’t require inventing formulas and concoctions!

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To what extent are you willing to go in order to naturally stimulate your hair growth?

There is a way which can take place in the privacy of your own bedroom.

Yes, you said it!

SEX!

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Research shows the hormonal connections between a regular healthy sex lifestyle and hair growth.

Regular sex influences the production of sex hormones such as androgens, which influence hair growth, and endorphins, a feel-good neurotransmitter that impacts both body, mind and soul subsequently promoting healthy hair growth!

A  scalp massage could have done the trick, but you would agree that sex is much more fun! Sexual activity gets your blood flowing, especially near the skin’s surface. In physiological response hair follicles receive more oxygenation and more nourishment ensuring ideal conditions for growth.

Regular sex is an option worth adding to your daily hair routine. But don’t be carried away. Too much of everything may have some unfavourable effects. Too much sexual activity can lead to the unhealthy over-production of testosterone and adrenaline, leading to possible hair loss, especially in men!

 

Nevertheless, regular sex a is a very justifiable hair growth stimulator. So ladies, it’s time to get our groove and go 200% natural!

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Images: Google

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Tools Of The Trade: Natural Hair Combs

 

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Learning how to manage your natural tresses can be a real task when you have to weed through hundreds of natural hair care products, tools, and websites that all have different perspectives on what methods work for certain hair types.

As you know, there are staple hair products, and tools that every naturalista should have to maintain her hair. As simple as it may seem, having a good comb (styling tool) can make the difference between a horrific and a smooth detangling experience– among other things.

Not every comb is best for your hair type, and/or styling method.  Each comb has a unique purpose, and effect on the outcome of your style.

To help you navigate and learn the “Tools of The Trade,” we have created a guide that will assist you in choosing the right styling tool to achieve your desired results.

Check out our comb guide from our latest fall issue on page 23


What are your favorite styling tools? Comment below 🙂

Xoxo

Malia

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Natura Chats With The Beautiful Vlogger @Donedo!! (Get All The Tea Inside)

 

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She’s a dope photographer, an amazing artist, a stylist and one of our favorite YouTube vloggers. DONEDO, is a force to be reckoned with, and she is taking the natural hair community by storm. Natura had the opportunity to chat with the daring naturalista, and get all the deets on her hair, life, and her involvement with Natura Magazine.

Check out our convo and her latest video below…

Malia: Why/when did you decide to go natural?

Donedo: When I moved to Chicago for grad school, I would drive all the way back to Michigan to get a touch up because I didn’t know any stylists in Chicago that I could trust. Since I was very busy with school I started stretching my touchups longer and longer until finally I realized I could go without them. I had already became infatuated with natural hair so this was just the final push.

Malia: How has your hair transition made an impact on your life?

Donedo: My transition allowed me to realize how versatile natural hair could be. I used my transition as an experimental phase to try new hairstyles I’ve never done before. Most of my friends and coworkers love my new hairstyles! They joked that I would have a new hairstyle every day of the week which wasn’t completely inaccurate. I transitioned for about a year and a half but for the first year I wore weave’s.

Malia: What made you decide to want to share your hair/beauty experiences with the world?

Donedo: I’m a creative person to begin with. I was always into art and photography so naturally when I started doing new hairstyles I want to take pictures of my awesome looks. I shared those pictures on Instagram and started tagging my photos and that’s when I started getting more followers and interview requests from the natural hair community. It actually had only been maybe two weeks that I have been experimenting with different natural hairstyles and a contributor from Black Girl Long Hair contacted me to see if I would like to do an interview showing off different hairstyles and my fashion. I felt like I didn’t have enough examples to show of me rocking my natural hair so I waited about a month to come up with new hairstyles and photos before submitting the interview. From that interview I gained a lot of followers.

Malia: What do you want your followers/subscribers to gain from watching your videos and following your social media pages?

Donedo: I want my followers gain inspiration to wear their natural hair confidently. I like to try new styles and new hair colors. Hair is a great accessory and you should have fun with it. I also share hair tips, advice, and products that work well for my hair.

Malia: How do you gain inspiration when styling your hair?

Donned: In the beginning I just tried new things and used my creativity to inspire new styles. Instagram and Youtube are also great resources for inspiration.

Malia: What is your staple hairstyle?

Donedo:This past year I perfected my wash-n-go but overall twist outs and braid outs have been my staples since going natural.

Malia: What are your favorite products out right now?

Donedo: I literally have hundreds of different products but lately I’ve been loving Entwine Couture’s product line. For co-washing I use Hello Hydration by Herbal Essence or Aussie Moist.

Malia: If you could describe your hair in three words, what would it be?

Donedo:Big, vibrant and kinky.

Malia: Why did you decide to create “My Twisted Life,” and what can viewers expect from the series?

Donedo: I decided to create “My Twisted Life” to incorporate more lifestyle media in with my hair hairstyling that I’ve become known for. I love to create. I am an artist, photographer and designer. I also love fashion and cooking. I have a lot of different passions and I wanted a place where I can share them all.

Malia: What sets you apart from other natural hair vloggers?

Donedo: My willingness to experiment with my hair and share my journey, good or bad. I also am more than just hair. I’m a freelance photographer and I share vlogs, recipes, DIY projects, home improvement, culture and more.

Malia: What can we expect from your involvement with Natura Magazine?

Donedo: You can expect me to share the same things you love from my YouTube and Instagram with Natura. I also have a few different partnerships with brands this year so I’ll have more reviews and demos to show with a variety of products.

Malia: What is your best advice for a transitioning natural hair diva?

Donedo:. Don’t hold on to damaged ends. It’s so much easier once you cut the relaxed hair off. Just go for it!

Malia: What is one thing that your followers don’t know about you?

Donedo: I’ve lived in Brazil, Salvador da Bahia to be precise.

Malia: What would you like to contribute to the natural hair community?

Donedo: I would like to contribute positivity and inspiration to the natural hair community.

Malia: What’s next for you?

Donedo: Right now I’m focusing on my photography and YouTube so we’ll see what’s in store for me next!

Check out @Donedo’s new braid out video with Entwine Couture

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What’s Your Hair Type

Whats my hair type?… Am I a 4a, 3b,  or 2c?  Whether you just transitioned to natural, or you’ve been natural for years, knowing your hair type can rule out a lot of unnecessary problems when managing your natural tresses.  Knowing your specific hair type can help you determine what products and styles work best for your texture. This in essence will save you a lot of money spent on unnecessary products and headaches from styles that don’t last.  Experts from the Natura Staff  have composed a chart to help assist you in determining your natural hair type.

Im a 3C.. what are you?

Xoxo

Naturalia

to see the chart click here.

 

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Short Hair, Don’t Care!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Permed Hair Easier to Manage?

Apart from fitting into the given standard of beauty, another reason for perming our hair was making it easier to manage and maintain. Our natural course hair was capable of breaking a comb and totally unmanageable!

After 15 years of permed hair and over 5 years with natural hair, I look back in retrospect and wonder if permed hair was really easier to manage or  just an illusion passed down from generation to generation.

In order to come up with a coherent answer, I had to analize the two experiences – Permed hair VS Natural hair.

Maintaining permed hair:

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  1. Roots have to be retouched at least every 3 months.  This requires going to the hair salon where you can find an experienced hairdresser. Since perming is “controlled damage” the possibilities of having your hair burnt by an amateur is pretty high.
  2. A visit to the hair salon at least once a week is required to keep your hair looking nice and sleek. That could strain your pocket in addition. But once your perm is nice and fresh, combing is made easy with finger slipping smoothly through your hair.
  3. After a fresh perm or retouch you mustn’t wash your hair within 48 hours. Washing with shampoo ( and even getting your hair wet)  can disturb the hair proteins as they are locking into their shapes in those first hours.
  4. Extra tender loving care is vital to maintain a healthy looking perm- shampooing, extra conditioning, extra oil and protein treatments. This is because perming, forcibly and permanently breaks down the protein in your hair in order to keep it straight.
  5. Permed hair is constrained to simple everyday styles without visiting the salon. There is a limited variety of things you can do in the comfort of your own home.

Maintaining natural hair:

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  1. Regular visits to the hair salon aren’t necessary for a retouch or treatment and the closest you get to burning your hair is bending over the gas cooker!
  2. Natural hair doesn’t need to be washed every day. It’s enough to wash it once a week or every other week with a detangling session. Once detangled and styled, combing every day isn’t neccessary. This guarantees peace of mind throughout the whole week.
  3. Nevertheless, combing and detangling can be an ordeal! You dare not comb your kinky mane when it’s dry. It must be damp with water or leave-in conditioner and sectioned into smaller parts before attempting to comb. Running a comb through your kinks is a no-no.
  4. Protein structure is retained in natural hair. This means, regular oil treatments aren’t a must and can be done in the comfort of your own home leaving you with a few  extra pennies at the end of the month.
  5. The versatility of natural hairstyles are numerous- flat twists, twist outs, high bun, high puff, two-strand twists, frohawk and bantu knots just to mention a few. In addition, you can wear it straight, wavy or kinky curly.

I used to have a perm for over fifteen years and I had a difficult time sticking to the rules of maintenance. I guess that’s why it stayed at shoulder length and never grew beyond.

I have been natural for over five years and hardly visit the hair salon. My hair has never been this long! It’s now bra-length and still growing. Keeping my hair moisturized seemed to do the trick. In my opinion, the myth of permed hair being easier to manage has been crushed. Natural hair rules! It’s easier, cheaper and more fun to manage! What’s your take on that?